Retirement Calculator
Project your retirement nest egg and find out if you're on track.
What this calculator does
This retirement calculator projects what your savings grow into by the age you plan to stop working, then translates that balance into the monthly income it can sustainably produce. You supply your current age, retirement age, existing savings, monthly contribution, expected return, and the withdrawal rate you want to plan around. It returns the nest egg at retirement, the income that nest egg supports, and a year-by-year table separating what you contributed from what the market added.
That contributions-versus-growth split is the part worth reading. In the early years almost the entire balance is money you put in. Somewhere in the second or third decade growth overtakes contributions permanently, and from then on the portfolio does more of the work than you do.
When to use it
The natural moment is when you are setting a contribution rate: at open enrollment, after a raise, or when a new job first gives you access to a 401(k). Working backwards from a target monthly income to the contribution that produces it turns an abstract percentage into a decision you can act on this month.
It is also the right tool for the retire-early question. Running retirement at 62 against 67 shows both effects at once, since you lose five years of compounding on your largest ever balance and add five years the portfolio must fund. And it prices the choice between putting a bonus into the market or against the mortgage.
Understanding the inputs
Current savings should be every retirement-earmarked dollar you hold, including 401(k) balances, Traditional and Roth IRAs, and any taxable brokerage you would genuinely draw on. Monthly contribution should include the employer match, because matched money compounds identically to your own and omitting a typical 3 percent match understates a 30-year projection substantially.
Expected return swings the result harder than any other field. Seven percent nominal is defensible for a diversified stock-heavy portfolio and anything above 8 is optimistic. Withdrawal rate should reflect how long the money has to last: 4 percent for a retirement starting around 65, closer to 3.5 percent if you intend to stop in your fifties.
How is this calculated?
FV = PV(1+r)^n + PMT×[(1+r)^n − 1]/r. Nest Egg Needed = Monthly Income / Withdrawal Rate.
A worked example
A 35-year-old with $85,000 saved, contributing $800 a month at 7 percent, reaches roughly $1,936,000 by age 67. Only about $392,000 of that is money they contributed; the remaining $1.54 million is growth. At a 4 percent withdrawal rate the portfolio supports around $77,400 a year, or roughly $6,450 a month, before any Social Security.
Raise the contribution to $1,200 a month and the balance rises to about $2,507,000. Alternatively, retire at 62 on the original $800 and it falls to roughly $1,325,000. Five years of earlier retirement costs around $611,000, because those are precisely the years the largest balance would have been compounding.
Limitations and assumptions
This is a projection under fixed assumptions, not a prediction. It applies one constant return every single year, which no real portfolio delivers. Markets arrive in sequences, and the order matters enormously: a bad decade immediately after you retire damages a portfolio far more than the same decade in the middle, even at an identical average. A single-figure output cannot show that risk.
It also ignores taxes on withdrawals, Social Security, healthcare costs before Medicare eligibility at 65, and any change in your contribution across a career. Treat the number as the center of a wide range rather than a target, and rerun it whenever your circumstances shift.
Common Questions
- How much do I actually need saved to retire?
- Divide the annual income you want your portfolio to produce by your withdrawal rate. Wanting $60,000 a year at a 4 percent rate implies a $1.5 million nest egg; at 3.5 percent it implies about $1.7 million. Social Security covers part of that income, so subtract your expected benefit before doing the division.
- What return should I assume?
- US stocks have returned roughly 10 percent nominally over the long run, but planning at that level is optimistic once fund fees and a bond allocation are counted. Six to seven percent nominal is a defensible figure for a stock-heavy portfolio, dropping as you glide toward bonds near retirement. Run a pessimistic case as well.
- Should I add Social Security into this?
- Not on the contribution side, because this projection deliberately excludes it. Instead subtract your estimated monthly benefit from your target income and size the portfolio around what is left. The average retired worker benefit runs a little over $1,900 a month; your own estimate is on your ssa.gov statement.
- What withdrawal rate should I choose?
- Four percent comes from research on 30-year retirements with a balanced portfolio. If you plan to stop at 55 rather than 65, a 30-year horizon is too short, and 3.25 to 3.5 percent is the more common recommendation for a longer drawdown. The withdrawal rate field lets you compare both directly.
- Is saving 15 percent of income enough?
- It is the standard rule of thumb, employer match included, and it holds up reasonably if you start in your twenties. Beginning at 35 typically requires closer to 20 percent, and beginning at 45 closer to 30 percent. Enter your real age and contribution above rather than trusting the rule to apply to you.
- Are the results in today's dollars or future dollars?
- Future dollars. The nest egg figure is the nominal balance at your retirement age. The inflation rate you enter shows what that sum is worth in today's purchasing power. At 2.5 percent inflation a dollar loses roughly half its value over 28 years, which is a very large adjustment on a long projection.
- Does this respect 401(k) and IRA contribution limits?
- No. It takes your monthly contribution at face value. For 2025 the 401(k) elective deferral limit is $23,500 and the IRA limit is $7,000, with catch-up amounts available from age 50. If your entered contribution exceeds what you can legally shelter, the excess has to live in a taxable brokerage account.
- What should I do if I am behind?
- Three levers move the number: contribute more, work longer, or plan to spend less. Delaying retirement is usually the most powerful because it adds compounding years and removes drawdown years at the same time. Push your retirement age up by three years above before concluding you need to double your savings rate.
- How often should I rerun this?
- Once a year is plenty, ideally when you review your contribution rate or take a raise. What matters is not the projected balance moving around, because it always will, but whether your savings rate has kept pace with your income. Rerunning after any job change or plan rollover is worthwhile.
Related calculators
- Retirement Withdrawal CalculatorCalculate how long your retirement savings last at different withdrawal rates.
- Retirement Gap CalculatorIdentify the gap between your projected retirement savings and your income goal.
- Retirement Longevity CalculatorCalculate the risk of outliving your retirement savings.